Paul Smith womenswear AW12-13
Doyen of London Fashion Week, Paul Smith, today showed his Autumn Winter 2012 womenswear collection to an audience studded with top UK fashion and magazine editors. The overall theme of the show, held as usual at the Royal Horticultural Halls in South London, was the presentation of strong, masculine tailoring. The slim, androgynous silhouette favoured by the revered British designer was out in force on the catwalk but with a sexy, secretary chic twist (gotta love a pair of black rim glasses). All outfits came complete with flat, patent loafers, typically in a warm aubergine colour or cool snakeskin.
Black tuxedos with metallic shimmering fabrics underneath, cropped riding jackets and oversized coats with ‘too-long’ sleeves set the tone. Cue plenty of wide check tartan, forest green and petrol blue (hot colours for AW12-13), flat front trousers and detail at the neck including white tux-esque collars. Standout pieces included crushed velvet outfits, which are probably best suited to the catwalk and the minority of fashionistas. Crushed velvet is notoriously difficult to pull off, but would probably look fantastic on someone like Jameela Jamil (whom I happened to spot on the ‘frow’). Other pieces of note included a sleeveless tweed Crombie coat, slim sitting tie-dye trousers, grey knitwear and aubergine fingerless gloves. A hint of the grunge perhaps? But, of course, tailored to perfection.
Also spotted… Vogue’s Emma Elwick Bates, Hilary Alexander and Suzy Menkes
Don’t miss… our preview from the Spring Summer 2012 Paul Smith mens and womenswear press day
The classically beautiful Art Deco venue
UK Vogue editor Alexandra Schulman is quizzed pre-show
My favourite look – high waisted skirt with wide waistband, classic wrap shirt and large glasses
Crushed velvet – seen in forest green on the left
Paul Smith leads the models in the final walk